Friday, 3 February 2012

you should have been here last century, bro ..

For starters:

YOU weren’t there

Balsa felt better
Blokes in cars with boards waved to other blokes in cars with boards
Voodo was a trek
Broken Head was an epic trek
Small boys were never seen in the line-up
Balsa looked better
Young ladies were also never seen in the line-up
Riding a board was unfashionable
You could get a cup of tea from the bloke shaping your board
- then he would deliver
Beer was stronger
Paddling out with a lighted smoke was a radical manoeuvre
Boards were big enough to go double with your best mate’s girlfriend, (she was the one in a bikini)
Nobody who lived north of Newport surfed
Beer was cheaper
Souths always won
Only three blokes in your year at school surfed
Board shorts were made of canvas

Nobody stopped at Lennox
Wax came in BLOCKS
Hardly anybody had a car
The Terrigal Haven worked every Easter weekend
Manly had a Pool hall
You didn’t need a girlfriend to do The Stomp
There were Milkbars

Everybody smoked tobacco

Drugs were aspirin

Mum kept your dinner warm in the oven when a latey was necessary

^ pic: woody brown cranking it around, 1950

header pic: nathan adams by nolan hall jan 11, steamer lane

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